Talks & Exhibitions
© Rosie Broadhead 2022
‘Odour control or inhibition using antimicrobial finishing.’
Broadhead, R.; Craeye, L.; Callewaert, C.. (2022). Chapter 6: Odour control or inhibition using antimicrobial finishing. In: Prof (Dr.) G.Thilagavathi and Dr. R.Rathinamoorthy Odour in Textiles: Mechanisms of Generation and Control. India: Psgtech.
Broadhead, R.; Craeye, L.; Callewaert, C. ‘The Future of Functional Clothing for an Improved Skin and Textile Microbiome Relationship’. Microorganisms 2021, DOI10.3390/microorganisms9061192
To what extent are our physical bodies affected by the
interaction between our environment and the surfaces and
materials we encounter?
Surface Tension is a virtual exhibition that focuses on realising
the positive impact materials have on the human body. From
gloves designed for NASA astronauts, antiviral seaweed face
masks, eco textiles which capture carbon, to 3D printed
prosthetics that mimic the structure of bone.
Skin, a biological surface, is the barrier between the self and the world. The complex exterior and semipermeable membrane interact with our biology and the environment. Yet, surface has often been overlooked in the quest for depth and truth. The COVID-19 pandemic has undoubtedly redefined our lives, from how we dress to our values in life, work, travel and play. With our long-established patterns being challenged we are given the time and opportunity to reflect upon our relationship with our environment, identities and intentions. With a virus that shifts our perspective to the barrier between us and the world around us, we ask how can the materials that we wear or interact with can offer both protection and improve our wellbeing? Fashion, or the business of clothing, hasn’t always been designed with our ever-changing circumstances and new technologies in mind. However, this doesn’t mean that the potential is not there. Today, there is an opportunity and a responsibility to rethink the surfaces that surround us, with the physical, environmental and cultural implications at the centre of design.
This exhibition is designed to host both speculative materials concepts and projects which are currently on the market or in the process of being manufactured. While using this as a showcase for what materials are available, this will also be intended to accelerate progress of the industry, for a future where the body and surface are considered simultaneously. Visit the Immersive digital experience via surfacetension.world curated by Rosie Broadhead and Wilson Oryema.
The focus is on looking at what is natural on our bodies to explore how we can create sustainable yet functional clothing, and replacing the need for toxic chemicals on textiles Skin Series, aims to highlight the bodies intimate relationship with the skin as a permeable membrane covering the body. By exploring the current and future possibilities of these therapeutic materials, it becomes possible to view clothing and the body as one entity.
Photographer: Anna Victoria Best
Stylist: Wei Ting
Concept/Designer: Rosie Broadhead
Set Design: Tom Schneider
Model: Lara McGrath
Make up: Billie McKenzie
Hair: Moe Mukai
Shoes: Western Affair
Dream Sleep Sound
Audio: Bianca Scout
Visuals: Anna Victoria Best
Model wearing Skin Series
‘Play at Bedtime’
A fashion designer creates a custom garment for a dancer, who improvises movement in the centre of a circle of potters. The potters simultaneously create works in response to the movement of the dancer and the forms created by the garment.
slip = movement = slip = garment = slip = clay = slip = paper
This film shows the initial making stage as described above, there will be a concluding performance in the future as below: The finished fired pots will be exhibited and performed with by the dancer, for an open still life / life drawing session. A group of artists are asked to participate, documenting the event in book form.
The first part of Late Works: SLIP took place at Central Saint Martins in collaboration with Second Skin Costumed Life Drawing and Duncan Hooson of Clay Ground Collective.
Commissioned by Late Works
Dancer: Kaivalya Brewerton
Costume: Skin Series
Potters: @garethbarks, @ameliabrokenbrow, @duncanhooson, @celeste__mcevoy, @jessiceramics & @ellieredfern
Editing: Joe Bradleyhill
Sound: Joe Bradleyhill & @patrickfitzgerald97
Concept by @joe.bradleyhill inspired by @o5nathalie ’s @secondskincostumedlifedrawing classes. Concept refined with @o5nathalie @lindathepotter & @duncanhooson
Invisible to the naked eye, our bodies play host to millions of microorganisms. Optimal skin conditions depend on the probiotic bacteria or microbes that live on our bodies. Our skin’s biome is shaped by our natural environment, and what we put on and next to our skin has a direct impact on our bodies. Cosmetic products and fabric finishes on clothing can contain toxic chemicals, which disrupt the diversity of bacteria living on our skin.
‘Skin II’, in collaboration with microbiologist Dr. Callewaert, explores the benefits of encapsulating probiotic bacteria into the fibres of clothing. These are activated when they come into contact with the moisture on our skin, therefore the probiotics are strategically placed in key areas where you would normally sweat. The encapsulated bacteria are associated with reduced body odour, encouraging cell renewal, and improving the skin’s immune system. This project not only replaces the need for chemical fabric finishes, but also reduces the need to wash your clothes as frequently. Skin II aims to use what is natural on our bodies to advance the performance of clothing.
Photographer: Karl Felix
The Magnesium Bikini
Magnesium Sulphate is a naturally occurring mineral, sourced from the sea and will dilute in water leaving no trace. When worn next to the skin this fluid composite material of Magnesium Sulphate possesses many health and wellness benefits including, reliving muscle tension and reducing stress. This mould-making process in which this product is made also considers how are garment can be made in the future, and the possibility of a circular system. ‘The Magnesium Bikini’ envisions wearing these minerals next to your skin as an alternative for your future wellbeing.
MaDe, a project co-funded by the Creative Europe Programme of The European Union, aims at boosting talents towards circular economies across Europe partnering with design and cultural institutions, Elisava, Ma-tt-er and Politecnico di Milano.
- ‘Bio Design in Practise’ Guest Lecture for Temporal Futures and Lebanese American University, 2022
- ‘Design for the Body, An interdisciplinary approach’ Lecture for Future Materials Bank, Jan van Eyck Academie, Maastricht, 2021
- Vogue Yoox Challenge: The Future of Responsible Fashion – Finalist, 2021
- ‘Epidermotopia’, hosted by Collectives, Group Show, Paris, Sept 2021
- ‘Surface Tension’, Virtual Exhibition, London Design Festival Sept 2021
- ‘Design by Nature’ Museum De Fundatie, Zwolle, July – Oct 2021
- ‘Biodesign – The Natural and Synthetic potential’ Panel talk, Fashion Open Studio, April 2021
- ‘Futuristic interactions between our bodies, materials and the environment’ British Fashion Council, Fashion Forum Podcast, 2021
- The Alternative Design Podcast, Episode 1, 2021
- MaDe Material Designers, Finalist, London, 2020
- ALMA x SKIN SERIES with Female Biophilia, 2020
- ‘Slip’, Late Works, Costume Design, London, 2020
- ‘How to Make’ With Zoe Laughlin, Episode 1 BBC FOUR, 2020
- ‘Dream Sleep Sounds’ Film Live Streamed with The Earth Issue, 2020
- Green Product Award Nominee, Munich, 2020
- ‘You Fab’, Global Creative Award, Finalist, Tokyo, 2020
- ‘Future Fabric Expo’ The Sustainable Angle, London, 2020
- Future Materials Bank, Jan Van Eyck Academie, Maastricht, Netherlands, 2020
- Visiting Lecturer Central Saint Martins and The Crick Institute, 2019
- ‘Microbiome: Inside Out’ Naturalis Museum, Leiden, Netherlands, 2019
- ‘United Matters’ Dutch Design Week, 19-27th Oct 2019
- ‘Bio Design Here and Now’ Open Cell, London Design Festival 19-21st Sept, 2019
- Probiotic Clothing Lecture, Rapha Racing HQ, London, 2019
- Yksi Expo ‘Milan Re-Used’, Eindhoven, 2019
- Ventura Futures, Milan Design Week, 2019
- ‘Future Factories’ Material Futures Workshops, Design Museum, London, 2018
Rosie Broadhead is an apparel designer and researcher specialising in biomaterials in the fashion industry. Founder of therapeutic clothing brand Skin Series and Textile Scientist at Ghent University. Her current research focuses on the skin microbiome and probiotics therapy as a solution for antibacterial finishes in textile which utilises technology that works in synergy with the body. Rosie is a graduate of Central Saint Martins’ MA ‘Material Futures’ course and has a background as designer and Head of Sustainability at sportswear brand Perfect Moment and R&D at Rapha. Rosie’s work has been showcased during Milan Design Week, Dutch Design Week, London Design Festival and exhibited at Museum De Fundatie, The Design Museum, Naturalis Museum. Her work has been featured by the BBC and in publications including Forbes, British Vogue, i-D and The New York Times.
Through her interest in the skin and clothing interaction, her research focuses on how science and technology will influence the future of fashion. More recently she has co-founded, Surface Tension platform centred around realising the positive potential of materials.